Edition: U.S. / Global

Thursday, October 5, 2017

Food

Danny Ghitis for The New York Times

Louie Estrada, the chef, brings the food of his childhood to his slip of a storefront, modeled after the cafeterías and coffee windows of Miami.

Valpolicella Comes Out of the Shadows

More popular and expensive styles like Amarone and Ripasso have surpassed this easygoing wine, but there is still very much a place for the real thing.

An Old Beer Learns New Tricks, and Risks an Identity Crisis

Leinenkugel’s, a hallowed Wisconsin beer, has scored a hit with sweet shandies — and, like many midsize brewers, divided its audience.

The Novel Taste of Old Food

Forget freshness: These days, chefs are falling in love with the flavor of aged ingredients.

Using Science and History to Unlock the Secrets of Bread

Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya’s myth-busting new book, “Modernist Bread,” is a call for bakers to experiment and innovate.

A Providence Chef Has Connections at the Docks

At Oberlin, Benjamin Sukle explores Rhode Island’s coast with nose-to-fin cooking of the freshest fish.

Lights! Camera! Culinary School Will Teach Instagram Skills

As images of restaurant dishes become more crucial, the Culinary Institute of America is one of the latest to add courses in food photography.

Eat

This Is the Best Firehouse Chili

For first responders, a shared meal is more than simply fuel.

At Supermoon Bakehouse, Croissants From the Chef Ry Stephen

The former pastry chef of Mr. Holmes Bakehouse in San Francisco has traveled east and brought the cruffins with him.

Slicing Through Myths

Consider making chocolate-cherry sourdough bread, or something simpler, like a no-recipe recipe for chicken lasagna with tortillas.

An Internet-Famous Cookie Worthy of Baking in Real Life

A chocolate chip cookie, thin with crisp ripples that run to the edges, finds Instagram fame.

Your Next Lesson: Crozes-Hermitage

In the northern Rhône Valley of France, Crozes-Hermitage can often be an afterthought. But the wines are rapidly improving.

Hwa Yuan Szechuan From the Owners of Shorty Tang Noodles Opens

Chen Lieh Tang, the son of Shorty Tang, is back to opening restaurants; Eleven Madison Park unveils its renovated space; and other restaurant news.

Circa Now

New Neighbors, New Considerations

As charitable organizations help to resettle refugees into American life, a little extra sensitivity during social occasions will go a long way.

Solving the Puzzle of Eggplant Parmesan

The answer: Slice the eggplant tempura-style, fan it out and then fry it whole.

City Kitchen

A Better Beet, Fresh From the Market

Canned beets just don’t compare to the sweet and earthy ones just pulled from the garden.

Spreading the Flavors of Indonesia, One Table at a Time

Warung Selasa, a pop-up in Queens, is one of New York’s smallest restaurants. And Kopi Kopi in the Village keeps the Indonesian cuisine ‘light.’

A New American Prosciutto

Niman Ranch’s cured ham is aged for at least a year.

Jarred Tomatoes Capture the Fleeting Flavors of Summer

City Saucery sells preserved local tomatoes at several Greenmarkets.

Guggenheim Talk Focuses on Legendary Dancer’s Cookbook

The museum celebrates the 50th anniversary of Tanaquil Le Clercq’s ‘Ballet Cook Book’ with two nights of discussion.

An Evening With the Chefs Barbara Lynch and Mark Ladner

A demonstration next month at the De Gustibus Cooking School will focus on Boston and pasta, among other things.

Chicago Art Museum Opens a Restaurant Named for Marisol

The new dining room at the Museum of Contemporary Art pays homage to the Venezuelan-American sculptor.

Pomme Palais Reopens in Midtown

The shop in the Lotte New York Palace hotel sells pastries and food to go, including apple cider doughnuts and a new take on the black-and-white cookie.

What 7 Fishmongers Wore to Work at the Fulton Fish Market

Messy jobs call for unfussy style.

Restaurants and News
Liz Barclay for The New York Times

A new restaurant on the Lower East Side pours Spanish and Portuguese drinks that leave the familiar behind. And it keeps the food simple.

Trilobites

The Evolutionary Event That Gave You Pumpkins and Squash

About 100 million years ago, the genome of a melon-like fruit copied itself, leading to fruits now associated with autumn, scientists have found.

Where Dumplings and Ducks Rule

Some of the best dishes at Wu’s Wonton King on the Lower East Side are the simplest, along with the whole suckling pig.

Obesity Was Rising as Ghana Embraced Fast Food. Then Came KFC.

The growing popularity of fried chicken and pizza in parts of Africa underscores how fast food is changing habits and expanding waistlines.

Puerto Rico’s Agriculture and Farmers Decimated by Maria

Hurricane Maria’s barrage took out entire plantations and destroyed crops and livestock across the island. The storm knocked out about 80 percent of its crops.

A Battle to Save the World’s Favorite Treat: Chocolate

In Costa Rica, researchers are cloning cacao hybrids resistant to frosty pod rot, a blight that has spread throughout Latin America.

Neighborhood Joint

High Tea on the Lower East Side

By night Garfunkel’s is a hard-to-find speakeasy, Victorian in décor. By day, it is the home of Janam Tea, which offers a proper tea service.

Review: A Cast of 87 Sounds a Climate Change Alarm

Bringing together wrestlers, a food cart, a cellist and a bandstand, Pig Iron Theater Company takes on catastrophe in “A Period of Animate Existence.”

One Surprise Standout for Uber: Food Delivery

Despite a late start, the company’s foray into delivering food, a cutthroat $100 billion-plus service industry, eclipses ride hailing in some markets.

Harvey and Irma Wiped Out Our Kitchens. Still, We Cook.

America has never lost so many stoves and pantries at once, but home cooks are intent on finding a way — any way — to make meals.

In Alaska’s Far-Flung Villages, Happiness Is a Cake Mix

The store-bought box, one of the few dependable food items in a place of scarcity, is tricked out for dinners and fund-raisers by many a “cake lady.”

Hunger and Desire, Stripped of Window Dressing, at Prune

The chef Gabrielle Hamilton’s thoughts on what makes a satisfying dinner are extremely clear.

A New Door Into the Kitchen for Aspiring Chefs

Instead of the usual unpaid internships, a New York City program gives young people a chance to apprentice in premier restaurants, for an hourly wage.

From a Pizza Oven in the Bronx, Albanian Specialties

Tradita turns out savory, delightfully salty dishes oozing with cheese and packed with meats.

Acclaimed French Chef to Michelin: Take My Stars, Please

Sébastien Bras, who runs Le Suquet restaurant in Laguiole, France, doesn’t want the stress. He’s not the first to seek to surrender the accolade.

San Francisco Chefs Serve Up a Message About Climate Change

Karen Leibowitz and Anthony Myint, who started Mission Street Food, have new ideas for the Perennial, their restaurant that promotes sustainability.

Tech We’re Using

Avoiding Cameras While Training the Lens on Food

Pete Wells, The Times’s restaurant critic, discussed how he avoids cameras to protect his identity and how technology has transformed the dining scene.

For Refugee Chefs, This Meal Is a Business Card

A food and arts festival aims to help migrants and asylum seekers build professional networks and foster better understanding of displaced people.

Cooking
A multicooker like the Instant Pot, which combines an electric pressure cooker and slow cooker with other functions in one machine, can produce succulent tamarind baby back ribs with astonishing speed.
Karsten Moran for The New York Times

A multicooker like the Instant Pot, which combines an electric pressure cooker and slow cooker with other functions in one machine, can produce succulent tamarind baby back ribs with astonishing speed.

There’s no other single gadget that makes it as easy to get a delicious meal on the table.

It’s Canned Tomato Season. Here’s What You Need to Know.

For everyday cooking, canned often outperform fresh. Julia Moskin tastes and investigates 10 top brands.

Eat

Have Your Date and Your Garlic Too

How you should — and should not — cook with garlic.

city kitchen

A Weeknight Meal That Needs No Introduction

Ready in 30 minutes, sausage and peppers, paired with sunny-side-up eggs, can be just the thing for those nights when you just want something simple.

FloFab’s Top 10: Special Ingredients to Elevate Your Pantry

They aren’t often cheap, but these items are worthwhile investments, a safe-deposit collection for flavor.

For Everyday Vegetable Dishes, Meera Sodha Is the Master

The British author is skilled in simplifying and modernizing the vibrancy of Indian home cooking, and in explaining just how to do it.

Yotam Ottolenghi on Creating Recipes for His Cookbook ‘Sweet’

For the British chef, author and self-described baking nerd, there is no limit to the number of times you can make a cake in order to get it right.

Expecting a Baby? What to Cook and Freeze Now So You Won’t Go Hungry Later

With a little advance planning, you can stock your freezer with a couple weeks’ worth of meals.

Roasted Summer Vegetables Tucked Into Tartlets

September’s cooler weather means it’s the perfect time to bake with late summer zucchini and tomatoes.

City Kitchen

Canned Are Grand, but Fresh Sardines Are Deliciously Simple

These small fish are healthy, sustainable and easy to grill at home, whether over hot coals or under the broiler.

Eat

The Secret to Amazing Mango Kulfi Comes in a Can

The idea that fresh is always better is both simple and false.

A Good Appetite

A Cake That Showcases the Beauty of Figs

Chopped up fresh figs and a honeyed cream cheese frosting make this cake perfect for Rosh Hashana and beyond.

city kitchen

A Succulent Brisket Almost as Good as Mom’s

It may not be the same, but a version seasoned with spices, topped with tons of caramelized onions, gets close to a beloved original.

An Accidentally Creamier, Fluffier Potato Salad

A mashed potato salad, the result of overmixing, can be a very good thing indeed, worth even making on purpose.

Drinks
Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

These easygoing bottles will not challenge or demand. They are all refreshing pleasures and great values. But they will also reward attention.

At Tales of the Cocktail, the Founder Steps Down

Ann R. Tuennerman, the founder of the annual cocktail convention in New Orleans, has resigned following a controversy that began with a Mardi Gras costume.

The Oregon Trail

The latest winemakers to settle in the region are bringing new perspectives, fresh energy and heartfelt enthusiasm to the country’s most exciting wine area.

Ordering a Double (a Drink and a Song) at Tokyo Record Bar

A new spot in Greenwich Village pays homage to a type of Japanese bar, letting you choose a platter to spin.

The Pour

From an Undervalued Region in France, New Energy, New Inspiration and Great Wines

A younger generation of winemakers has created reasons to care about Cahors.

Cider Moves Beyond the Apple

Pear, quince, strawberry: All kinds of flavors are being brought into play by cider makers big and small.

Learn to Cook
How to Use an Instant Pot

We’ll show you how to master a multicooker — which can act as electric pressure cooker, slow cooker, rice cooker, steamer and even yogurt-maker — with valuable techniques for getting the most out of the machine.

Featured Recipes
Croque-Monsieur
Magic Cookie Bars
Bucatini all’Amatriciana
Slow-Cooker Butter Chicken
Chicken Enchiladas
Light Potato Salad
Original Plum Torte
Hot Honey Shrimp
Chocolate Silk Pie
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How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

Find your favorite recipes on our Pinterest boards.

The 2017 Fall Restaurant Preview

Highly anticipated restaurant openings, and an industry in transformation.

Culinary Travel
Pursuits
On the Cocktail Trail in Brazil, a Favorite Spirit Gets Frisky

In São Paulo, bartenders are using a variety of cachaças (some of them vintage) to make inventive drinks — and to perfect the caipirinha.

Heads Up
In Landlocked Milan, Try the Fish

Thanks to the presence of the country’s biggest and most important fish market, Milan’s post-Expo restaurant landscape serves the highest quality seafood.

Bites
A Chicago Restaurant With an Impressive Pedigree and a Nordic Soul

Elske, which opened in December in the restaurant-rich West Loop, offers a relatively affordable tasting menu and à la carte options that nimbly blend Midwestern and Nordic sensibilities.

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